Design

Contemporary Fashion: Semaglutide Style and Visual Aesthetics

Contemporary Fashion: Semaglutide Style and Visual Aesthetics

Training with a guarantee of employment: "Fashion Designer Specialty"

Find out more

When analyzing new advertising campaigns, lookbooks, and photos from key fashion shows, it becomes obvious that the number of models with a noticeably thin physique has increased significantly. Previously, it seemed that the trend towards inclusivity was so deeply ingrained that the representation of the "ordinary" female body in the fashion industry would only intensify. However, the situation has taken an unexpected turn.

Perhaps the resurgence of slenderness is only a temporary phenomenon amid a steady movement towards inclusivity and the presentation of "real" bodies?

Let's try to understand what messages are conveyed by contemporary visual culture associated with fashion and glossy aesthetics.

Inclusive Casting: A New Look at Brands

Not only general perception, but also recent research confirms that size inclusivity in the fashion industry is declining, and casting methods are undergoing significant changes. The number of extremely thin models on the catwalk continues to increase.

Vogue Business's Spring/Summer 2025 collection analysis analyzed 8,763 outfits shown at 208 shows in the world's major fashion capitals. The results of the study showed that only 0.8% of them were presented by plus-size models, while the vast majority, namely 94.9%, were demonstrated on standard-size models accepted in the fashion industry.

Photo: Valentino / Jean Paul Gaultier

Some of the most famous luxury Not only have brands failed to increase their number of plus-size and average-size models, but they've even reduced their presence. Emma Davidson, fashion director at Dazed and the author of numerous publications on size inclusivity, notes: "In my opinion, this has been the worst season in a long time."

"I've started to notice that some brands have temporarily moved away from inclusive casting practices. However, this season, when I've attended shows for brands that have previously cast models of various shapes, I haven't seen any of them among the participants. This season has become the final confirmation of the decline of inclusivity."

Example: Mugler, which has been showing all the wonders of inclusive casting since its return to the catwalk in the AW23 season, did not present a single average or plus-size model this season. Frame: Mugler / YouTube

Not all brands and influencers are following this fashion trend. A prime example is Rihanna, who is enjoying the joys of motherhood and clearly doesn't strive for the conventional ideal of a fashionable body. She poses for her lingerie brand Savage x Fenty, delighting fans and collecting numerous likes.

Photo: Savage x Fenty

Y2K: The Eternal Revival of Noughties Aesthetics

Fashion trends invariably reflect the particular perceptions of the female body and beauty ideals in different historical eras. The current popularity of the Y2K style is largely due to a resurgence of interest in the aesthetics of the 1990s and early 2000s. It was an era remembered as the time of "heroin chic" and glamour, when extremely low-rise jeans, ultra-short skirts, and incredibly thin models were in fashion.

Kate Moss in a bikini in a shoot for Vogue, 1995. Shalom Harlow in Gucci for Vogue, 1997. Photo: Condé Nast Archive / Arthur Elgort / Google Arts and Culture.
Britney Spears in the film "Crossroads", 2001. During this period, she was considered too plump for pop star status. Still: film "Crossroads" / Paramount Pictures

Fashion does have a way of coming back, and sometimes you want to ask: "What year is it?" Amid the increased interest in Y2K aesthetics, an interesting trend is being observed: some brands that once seemed irrevocably forgotten are once again coming to the forefront. These brands include Ed Hardy, Diesel, Von Dutch, Blumarine, and Anna Sui. Their characteristic features are tight silhouettes, thick fabrics, short styles, and an emphasis on sexuality with an abundance of cutouts.

Faux-tanned Bella Hadid for Miss Sixty, January 2025. Y2K cowboy chic, micro shorts in a tight denim bodysuit Photo: Miss Sixty

Read also:

Y2K: style, visual design, user interfaces, interior design and objects.

The essence of Y2K aesthetics in its sincere and direct manifestation is quite clear: in the era of absolutism Conde Nast idealized thinness, which had a significant influence on design. However, even contemporary avant-garde brands like Otto Lingner and Knwls lack a diverse selection of styles. This is understandable, since miniature tops and skinny jeans look most impressive on slim figures.

The fashion industry still seems to adhere to this opinion, although just ten years ago we were assured that every woman could wear crop tops and skinny jeans, regardless of her figure.

Photo: KNWLS / Ottolinger
All-In brand show, spring-summer - 2024 Screenshot: TagWalk / Skillbox Media

By the way, publications such as Vogue are actively predicting that skinny pants, including models for men, will again take a strong place in fashion trends. These skinny pants, which fashion bloggers said goodbye to just a couple of years ago, are becoming fashionable again. This trend first gained attention during Milan Fashion Week, where brands like Prada, Sportmax, Tod's, and Marni presented legging-like styles.

The triumphant return of skinny jeans, which until recently were difficult to find in stores. Screenshot: Zara / Skillbox Media

It appears that the body-positive movement has weakened significantly. Public opinion has shifted again toward glamorizing slimness, especially with the increased popularity of Ozempic and the "unexpected" weight loss of influential individuals and bloggers.

A striking example is Barbie Ferreira, who has lost significant weight. Despite the fact that, according to generally accepted criteria, she is still considered a conditional representative of a plus size, the actress faces many negative comments and accusations of using the drug "Ozempic" on her social networks.

We in no way support Tox and do not know how exactly Barbie lost weight, but the example is very clear: the star of "Euphoria" and a plus-size diva with 5 million followers Ozempic is in fashion.

This medication was developed to treat type 2 diabetes, but its popularity has grown significantly due to its effectiveness in weight loss. For example, one study showed that the long-term use of semaglutide can lead to significant weight loss in people suffering from obesity.

Ozempic itself has become a symbol that influences culture. In 2024, a Berlin niche brand presented a T-shirt with the slogan "I love Ozempic," and singer Lizzo appeared as the drug's packaging for Halloween. In 2023, showman Jimmy Kimmel mentioned Ozempic in his Oscar acceptance speech, noting, "Everyone looks absolutely fantastic. When I look around the room, I can't help but think: "Shouldn't I try Ozempic?""

Mass market is not far behind: T-shirts with the slogan "I love Ozempic" can now be ordered anywhere. Image: AshBubble

With the growing rumors and news about With the drug's widespread use by celebrities, including Elon Musk and the Kardashians, demand for it began to skyrocket. At some point, this led to a shortage of medications for people suffering from diabetes and obesity, who truly needed these medications. Furthermore, a new trend has emerged in plastic surgery: correction of the so-called ozempic face, when significant weight loss leads to a specific sagging of the skin, making a person appear older than their age.

However, let's pay attention to another aspect: along with semaglutide, the "thinness trend", which had not yet been forgotten, has confidently entered the fashion catwalks again. This means that we can expect its influence on mass clothing design, which will likely become available for purchase and wear in the near future.

New items for spring 2025 in the catalogs of multi-brand platforms Photo: Nuself / Nume / Lamoda / The Attico / Farfetch

Nevertheless However, the discussion of inclusion and strict standards among designers continues. Recently, the London brand Selkie drew attention to this topic, doing it with a share of irony and wit: in one of their looks, they used bathroom scales and an ozempic "pencil" as elements of a voluminous hairstyle, made in the Rococo style.

The model on the right has a small dressing table on her hair, on it is a small "handle" of the drug, on a small stool Next to it is a scale, with more used packaging on it. The theme of this collection is "Girlhood" Photo: JP Yim / Selkie / Getty Images

This multi-layered collection, imbued with the spirit of the Marie Antoinette era and saturated with socio-cultural references, demonstrated a significant diversity in the choice of models. One of the most striking looks was plus-size model Charlie Reynolds, who appeared in a luxurious pink skirt and a feathered hat, enjoying an ice cream and casually covering her nakedness.

In this case, we are talking about an obvious reference to the look Kate Moss showed during the Erotic Zones collection show by Vivienne Westwood. As Kate herself noted, this now iconic moment when she ate ice cream wearing only a tiny miniskirt turned out to be "a little more difficult" for her psychologically than it might have seemed at first glance.

Read also:

The world is engulfed in protest. A story about the Vivienne Westwood brand.

On the left, a model in a stroller at the Selkie show. On the right, a favorite model of the brand. Photo: Photo: JP Yim / Getty Images / Selkie

Kimberly Gordon, designer and founder of the Selkie brand, consciously raised the issue of "Ozempic". Speaking to Dazed Beauty, she shares her thoughts:

“I have really mixed emotions about Ozempic, probably like most people,” she shares. “It’s difficult because the number of women seeking weight loss continues to grow, and it reminds me of the 1990s when the market was flooded with weight-loss products.”

“There’s so much criticism and acclaim out there right now, and it’s all happening so quickly. An influencer who was the epitome of plus-size suddenly turns out to be thin—it seems to happen overnight. Naturally, there’s dissonance and resentment. I’m sure a lot of women struggle with how to handle that. Personally, I don’t know how to handle it. It’s unclear how to make sense of it. Perhaps that’s why I wanted to bring it up.” After all, what are we really doing?

All this may lead one to think that the achievements in the field of inclusion may be in danger of disappearing. However, it is worth hoping that the desire to present a picture of "normality" will prove more resilient than the latest fad that captures public attention.

High fashion in the second half of the 20th century required women to maintain a size 0. On the left is a model wearing Christian Dior, 1952. On the right, a model in Adolfo, 1974. Photo: Condé Nast Archive / Google Arts and Culture.

Oversized in the Past?

While the oversized style is not something completely new or exceptional, it invariably reflects the demands and needs of its time.

In the 1980s, women began to embrace a style with an emphasis on large shoulders and the concept of power dressing, which became their way of demonstrating independence and a desire for equality with men both in the professional sphere and in life in general. This expressed their desire to occupy a more significant position in society through visual images.

Yohji Yamamoto coat, 1986. Versace jacket, 1980s Photo: 1st Dibs / 1st Dibs

In the '90s, chunky pieces became a symbol of the grunge and street culture spirit. While "alternative" and "hip-hop" represented different worlds, both subcultures conveyed a message of freedom—the freedom to be anything, even to ignore social norms.

Vivienne Westwood fur coat, 1992. Azzedine Alaïa skirt and cardigan, 1990s Photo: 1st Dibs / 1st Dibs

Read also:

Style: a visual guide to historical periods

After the "narrow" 2000s, when the world was engulfed by the Internet and post-irony, fashion once again turned its attention to voluminous silhouettes. In this context, Demna Gvasalia's creations have become truly iconic! Plus-size clothing has re-emerged as a necessity, proving that people of all shapes—both plus-size and traditionally slim—sometimes require a looser fit. This is necessary not only for confidence and sexiness, but, most importantly, for comfort.

Maison Margiela Blanket Jacket. Maison Margiela Coat Dress Photo: The Outnet / Mytheresa

Modern fashionistas of Generation Z likely won't be sacrificing comfort and extreme weight loss for a pair of size 24 jeans anytime soon. However, the protracted debate over size limits has ultimately led to many mass-market brands significantly expanding their size ranges. Perhaps the fashion industry itself won't allow a significant reversal in this regard.

You'll find a wealth of fascinating information about design on our Telegram channel. Join us!

Read also:

  • A comprehensive stylist's guide: how to choose a piece of clothing and harmoniously integrate it into your wardrobe.
  • Visual code: hats
  • Slow fashion, also known as conscious fashion, is an approach to the fashion industry that emphasizes sustainable consumption and ethical production. This concept opposes the fast fashion cycle, when clothing is produced in large quantities and with minimal quality costs, which ultimately leads to negative consequences for the environment and human rights.

    The main principles of conscious fashion include the use of environmentally friendly materials, respectful treatment of workers, and waste reduction. This approach implies that consumers consciously choose things that have durability and value, rather than following temporary trends. As a result of these choices, fashion becomes more than just a form of self-expression; it becomes a tool for positively impacting society and nature.

    Thus, conscious fashion is not just a style, but a philosophy focused on long-term change in the industry and the world as a whole.

  • The Decline of Luxury: The Chronicle of Maison Martin Margiela

    Maison Martin Margiela is not just a brand, but an entire philosophy that has turned ideas about fashion on their head. Founded in the late 1980s, it became known for its unusual approach to design and a strong conceptual foundation. Martin Margiela, the brand’s founder, sought to create more than just clothes; his goal was to rethink the very nature of fashion.

    From his early collections, Margiela showed how traditional forms can be deconstructed, revealing beauty in imperfection. He used unconventional materials and unexpected elements, which caused both admiration and bewilderment among the public. One of the characteristic features of his work is anonymity as a style. Rather than focusing on his name, the designer preferred to place the emphasis on the garments themselves.

    Over time, the brand became synonymous with the avant-garde, attracting the attention of both fashion insiders and a wider audience. However, with increasing popularity came new challenges. Maison Martin Margiela faced the need to adapt to the rapidly changing conditions of the fashion industry, where commercial success is often valued above artistic merit.

    In 2014, after years of existing in the shadows, Margiela was sold to the Renzo Rosso group, which caused mixed feelings among fans. While some were pleased to see the brand continue, others feared that its spirit would be lost in the pursuit of profit.

    Ultimately, Maison Martin Margiela remains a symbol of a unique approach to fashion that questions traditional norms and values. Despite the challenges he faces, Margiela's legacy continues to inspire and influence a new generation of designers.

The Art of Fashion Creation: The Profession of a Fashion Designer

You will master all the necessary skills required by a designer: from developing unique models to creating fashion sketches, as well as interacting with production processes and even sewing on their own. You will have the opportunity to launch your first clothing collection, begin a professional career in the fashion world, or turn your hobby into a successful business.

Find out more