"Proud South": How Southern Design Is Becoming Popular

Contents:

• Author
• Book
• Design and beliefs
• Colors and prints

During Milan Design Week, renowned Dutch trend forecaster Li Edelkoort presented her new book, "The Proud South." As always, Edelkoort was at the forefront of change, anticipating key trends. She stated that the creative South is ready for change, having accumulated strength and clearly defined its identity. This region is poised to radically alter the landscape of contemporary fashion, styling, textiles, product design, decor, and scenography. In her book, Edelkoort analyzes the influence of southern cultures on global trends and emphasizes their importance in shaping a new visual language.

In Edelkoort's book, illustrations, not text, play a central role. 75% of this striking, gilded volume is devoted to the fashion and style of contemporary southerners, captured by talented photographers. That's why Edelkoort calls herself not the author, but the curator of this publication.

This book could become an important milestone in the dialogue between the creative industries of the Northern and Southern regions. In this column, I will talk in detail about its content and meaning.

Author

Li Edelkoort is one of the founders of professional trend hunting. With a background in textile design, she moved from Amsterdam to Paris in 1975 and founded the Trend Union agency with friends. She later switched to consulting and created Li Edelkoort Studio, which has offices in Paris, New York, and Tokyo. Her clients include such famous brands as Coca-Cola, Nissan, Camper, Estee Lauder, Lancome, and Shiseido. Li Edelkoort continues to influence the world of fashion and design, predicting new trends and shaping the future of the industry.

From 1999 to 2008, Li Edelkoort served on the board of directors of the Design Academy Eindhoven. In 2008, she founded the School of Form in Poznań and launched the Trend Tablet web platform, which has become an essential resource for design and fashion professionals. In 2003, Time magazine named her one of the 25 most influential people in fashion, confirming her importance in the field. Li Edelkoort continues to influence design and fashion, shaping new trends and inspiring future generations of designers.

Throughout her nearly half-century career, Li Edelkoort has traveled the world. She has worked in Africa, Asia, and Latin America, creating unique collections, giving lectures, and curating exhibitions. Li has designed clothing for Indian brands, assisted in the production of indigo fabrics in East Africa, and organized product design exhibitions in South Africa. Thanks to this experience, she is well aware of the state of the fashion industry and textile production in the Southern Hemisphere.

Li Edelkoort has immersed herself in the lifestyles of various peoples and discovered the amazing beauty of nature. She was captivated by the vast expanses of Africa, the flourishing gardens of India, and the dense forests of Brazil. While collecting stories from Yawanawá women, she learned about their dreams, including their desire to free themselves from their role as berry pickers in the Amazon. Through her observations, Edelkoort concluded that Western notions of well-being differ significantly from the optimistic and feminist spirit inherent in many Southern cultures. The wisdom that can be gleaned from the life experiences of the proud South is worth sharing with the North. This intercultural connection can enrich our understanding of well-being and equality.

There's a clear stagnation in design in the North, as many continue to create the same things. People feel like their closets are already full of identical items. Often, when purchasing a new item, people return home and realize they already have something similar. This creates a sense of nostalgia and disappointment due to the lack of variety in choice. The situation calls for a renewed approach to design and a more creative outlook on creating unique and interesting pieces.

Book

The idea for the book arose during a meeting with South African graphic designer Muthoni Kimani at the Design Indaba festival. Discussing current trends and looking at his work, Li Edelkoort realized that a long-cherished dream had come true. The southern region is beginning to awaken to the opportunities offered by the global world.

A new generation of creatively oriented Southerners who express their individuality through design and craft, actively using local materials and reimagining traditional practices. This new idiom emerged against a backdrop of postcolonial influences and the powerful liberation movements of the second half of the 20th century. The incubation period proved lengthy, but now Southern creativity is shattering outdated stereotypes about what should be done and how. This phenomenon demonstrates the unique ability of southern masters to integrate heritage and modernity, creating innovative solutions and inspiring a new generation of designers.

African fashion and fashion photography have a unique creativity. Photographers are actively incorporating local ethnic elements, combining them with commercial advertising and employing a humorous approach. Casting plays a key role in this process, as the professionals who select models possess the experience and intuition to find striking and memorable characters. This creates visually appealing images that highlight the richness of Africa's cultural heritage and draw attention to the region's fashion trends.

Li Edelkoort singled out Senegalese Omar Victor Diop among contemporary fashion photographers. This self-taught photographer draws on the heritage of African studio photography, lending his work a unique character. Diop masterfully works with color, drawing inspiration from Fauvism and local glass painting traditions. His renowned series, "Project Diaspora," features costumed portraits of Africans and historical figures from the 15th to 19th centuries. It illustrates the interplay of cultures between the South and North, offering a profound understanding of cultural heritage and identity. Diop not only preserves traditions but also brings a contemporary perspective, making his work relevant and significant in the world of fashion photography.

Design and Beliefs

The proud South, unlike the North, remains true to its religious traditions and rituals. Here, faith retains its depth and sincerity. Contemporary designers are immersed in a culture that combines elements of various religious traditions. Layers of colonial Catholicism, missionary Protestantism, and the historical influence of Islam form the foundation of primordial spirituality. This diversity creates a unique cultural space where different beliefs and practices interact and intertwine.

Abrahamic religions combine with elements of Hinduism, Taoism, and Buddhism, creating a unique religious diversity. This is especially noticeable in multicultural countries such as Brazil and South Africa. Here, statues of the Virgin Mary coexist with images of Buddha, and religious utensils and temple architecture become objects of contemporary art and design. This blending of cultures and beliefs enriches local traditions and fosters new forms of spiritual practice. Li Edelkoort emphasized the importance of African designers' memory and their rethinking of the legacy of their ancestors' slavery. Interest in workwear is bringing slim cuts, high-quality tailoring, and durable fabrics back into fashion. Young people choose workwear as a stylish and affordable way to express themselves. In the countries of the South, labor continues to serve as a means of social mobility. Moreover, contemporary clothing can become a silent tribute to ancestors who survived slavery and an attempt to overcome the pain and humiliation that endured many generations of Africans. This approach not only emphasizes the significance of cultural heritage but also promotes identity formation through fashion. Li Edelkoort emphasized the importance of football as a powerful unifying factor between the South and the North. The names of clubs such as Real Madrid and Manchester United have become a kind of passwords, opening doors and hearts to residents of the South. Football is ubiquitous, and fan subcultures are developing in every country. Vuvuzelas, typical of African fans, are now used worldwide to support teams. Football has also had a significant influence on everyday fashion: sweatshirts and tracksuit bottoms are popular in the South, and clothing with club insignia has become a universal language understood throughout the region. Football not only unites people but also shapes lifestyle and culture, reflecting the passion and devotion of its fans.

Colors and Prints

Li Edelkoort dedicated a separate section to the color indigo, which has become a symbol of pride in the South. This color has deep historical roots. The oldest remains of plants used to obtain indigo were discovered in Peru and date back approximately 6,000 years. Indigo spread throughout North and South America, as well as Asia and Africa, long before the advent of seafaring between the continents. In these regions, people mastered the art of extracting blue pigment from plants, confirming its importance in world culture and history.

Over time, people mastered a variety of dyeing techniques, allowing them to achieve a variety of shades, ranging from light blue to deep black. The development of techniques such as ikat and tie-dye was an important step in the development of textile art. Modern fashion designers and interior designers actively use these methods to create unique and stylish pieces. The variety of shades and dyeing techniques allows for individuality and expressiveness to be added to any project, making them sought after in the worlds of fashion and design.

Southerners confidently interact with everyday life using the unique motifs of African fabrics. Today, these fabrics can adorn not only traditional items but also modern items such as mobile phones and bicycle helmets. For example, there are fabrics with bright slogans, such as "Bon Appetit," that harmoniously combine with images of knives and forks. These materials create an atmosphere in which the mood and culture of the Southern countries are valued more than the print itself.

Reworked text:

Study additional materials:

African patterns: from adinkra to shweshwe

African patterns are a unique combination of culture, tradition and artistic expression. Known for its vibrant colors and geometric shapes, Adidira is one of the most popular patterns. This style is often used in textiles and clothing, reflecting the richness of African heritage. Shweshwe is another iconic pattern that has gained wide recognition both in Africa and beyond. It is distinguished by distinctive lines and repeating elements, giving it a special dynamic. These patterns not only serve as decoration but also carry deep meaning, telling us about the traditions and life of African peoples. African patterns are actively used in fashion, interior design, and design. Their popularity is growing due to the demand for unique and authentic pieces. Understanding the significance of these patterns helps to deeper appreciate their artistic value and cultural heritage. The abundance of nature in the South is its hallmark and an important source of inspiration. The tropical and subtropical climates create ideal conditions for a variety of flora and fauna. The unique landscapes of Latin America, Africa, and Asia, their vibrant colors, shapes, and scents, continue to influence designers and photographers. Exotic birds, butterflies, and monkeys often become elements of patterns adorning colorful printed fabrics. Nature not only serves as an attractive backdrop for photo shoots but also acts as impressive props and a means of creating images.

"The Proud South" is a book series, the second of which will be dedicated to design and craft. This is important, as the project not only offers a new "vision" but also introduces readers to a multitude of new names from Africa, Asia, and Latin America. Moreover, it can become a source of inspiration and optimism for northern countries and their inhabitants.

The South offers unique design solutions that become a formula for inner happiness. This is expressed in colors, motifs, and the overall concept of fashion and photography. As Li Edelkoort argues, these solutions contain a strength that we have lost. Southern traditions and aesthetics inspire the creation of harmonious images that reflect not only style but also deep human emotions. It's important to understand how these elements influence our perception of the world around us and shape our mood, creating harmony between our inner state and outer appearance.

Learn more about design in our Telegram channel. Subscribe to stay up to date with interesting content and updates!

Read also:

• Mexican design: how modernism and contemporary style combine
• South Korean design: features, names, projects
• Beirut and Tripoli as centers of contemporary design