Space, Drama Everywhere. The History of the Mugler Fashion House

Contents:

• Neither stability nor carelessness
• To the golden past and the heroic future
• Who are these women?
• From the circus to miracles

Thierry Mugler, a remarkable designer, left a noticeable mark on the world of fashion, combining elements of science fiction, iconic drag balls, and images of insect women. In his work, one can see the influence of movie stars and superheroines, which creates a unique atmosphere of theatricality in fashion. His followers continue to develop this concept, creating mesmerizing images that draw attention to important themes related to identity and self-expression. Fashion, as interpreted by Mugler and his students, becomes more than just clothing, but a true art, capable of shocking and inspiring.

Neither stability nor carefree

On December 21, 1948, in Strasbourg, which was in the conservative atmosphere of the post-war period, Manfred Thierry Mugler was born. He was one of two sons of a doctor and his wife, known for her passion for fashion. Mugler went on to become a renowned fashion designer whose work had a significant impact on the worlds of fashion and style. His unique approach to design and attention to detail made him one of the most prominent figures in the fashion industry.

From an early age, Thierry Mugler displayed a rebellious spirit and a desire to create a unique, theatrical, and fantastical world. He disliked home and school, but found his true passion in ballet. At the age of nine, he began taking dance lessons, and in 1965, he became part of the corps de ballet of the National Rhineland Opera. This experience laid the foundation for his future achievements in the worlds of fashion and art. Mugler used his dance skills and creative approach to create unusual collections that changed the perception of fashion. Inspired by theater and art, he managed to combine these elements in his work, which made him one of the most prominent designers of his time.

According to Manfred, he was too tall to qualify for the role of the ballet prince, and too extravagantly dressed to walk the streets of Strasbourg without being ridiculed. He turned down Maurice Béjart's offer to join his "Ballets of the 20th Century" because the troupe was based in conservative Brussels, and instead chose Paris.

In the late 1960s, in bohemian Paris, his unique image and charisma attracted attention, and his talent brought in income from the sale of his designs for ready-to-wear clothing. At the same time, Mugler continued his creative work in Amsterdam, where he lived on a houseboat. He also traveled by car to Afghanistan and studied Kathakali dance in India, which enriched his cultural experience and inspired him for his future work.

Manfred never became a hippie. Despite his passions and desire for a free life, he did not embrace the philosophy of this subculture. His path turned out to be different, although his interest in hippie ideals remained. Perhaps he was seeking his place in the world, unconventional, and creating his own lifestyle that reflected his individuality.

In 1971, Mugler returned to Paris and encountered contemporary fashion trends, which he considered too naive. His ballet training had a significant influence on his perception of fashion: he was fascinated by the grace and physicality of dancers, who possessed not only grace but also unique proportions. Mugler strove to create clothing that emphasized these perfections, preferring to envelop bodies in original and expressive silhouettes reminiscent of armor or insect shells. He rejected traditional pieces like little black dresses and flared jeans with T-shirts that were popular at the time, and instead sought out new shapes and materials that could reflect his unique take on fashion.

In 1973, Thierry Mugler presented his first collection under the Café de Paris label. This collection significantly differed from the modern perception of the brand, offering relaxed and bohemian clothing that combined elegance and comfort. The styles included coats and voluminous dresses. The success of his initial collections allowed Manfred to open a boutique in Paris and expand his business, which was an important step in his career. Since then, the Mugler brand has established itself as a symbol of an innovative approach to fashion, combining unique style and high quality.

The name Café de Paris was not considered commercially successful at the time, since all prestigious fashion houses named themselves after their founders. In this regard, Mugler's business partner, Alain Carduc, insisted on the need to change the name. This decision was aimed at increasing the attractiveness of the brand and its compliance with the standards of the luxury segment.

Into the golden past and the heroic future

In 1974, Thierry Mugler founded his own fashion house in Paris, which quickly gained popularity. The Thierry Mugler brand became known for its innovative and avant-garde models, where classic lines are harmoniously combined with futuristic elements. This unique combination attracted the attention of the fashion industry and allowed the brand to establish a strong position in the market. Mugler became a symbol of bold design decisions and a creative approach to fashion, which made his name synonymous with style and originality.

His perception of women's fashion is undergoing a radical change. Voluminous and soft silhouettes give way to form-fitting dresses and suits made from shiny materials. With each new season, the level of sexuality and futurism in the collections continues to grow, reflecting modern trends and the desire for innovation in the fashion world.

Mugler's true education was formed at the cinema next to the train station in Strasbourg, where he watched five old Hollywood films a day. He was captivated by the images of Marlene Dietrich in leather and fur, as well as the dancer Cyd Charisse, whose inspiration he carried throughout his life. He later fulfilled his long-held dream by inviting her to model for his show.

Mugler's true education began in a cinema next to the train station in Strasbourg, where he watched five old Hollywood films a day. He was fascinated by icons such as Marlene Dietrich in leather and fur outfits, as well as dancer Cyd Charisse. The inspiration he received from these film legends followed him throughout his life. Later, he realized his dream by inviting Cyd Charisse as a model for his show, which was a clear confirmation of his deep respect for art and culture.

Who are these women?

In 1980, the Mugler brand became a symbol of power dressing, reflecting the popular trend for confident and powerful images. However, the styles created by Mugler, with their maxi shoulders, wasp waists, and a combination of leather and latex, radically changed the perception of this aesthetic. These outfits are intended not for office workers, but for space spies emphasizing their strength and independence. The brand sets new standards, transforming fashion and creating images that stand out for their boldness and originality.

Feminists expressed dissatisfaction with the fact that Mugler's clothes make women resemble caricatures. Critics also pointed out the presence of "fascist" elements in his style. Mugler once named Leni Riefenstahl, a famous filmmaker of the Nazi regime, as one of his favorite figures, which caused a strong reaction from journalists.

There is no reason to interpret this as sympathy for fascism. Mugler was inspired by the monumental style of Leni Riefenstahl, whose films celebrated the beauty and strength of the human body. The scale of her filming, which involved thousands of people, also influenced Mugler, who sought to transfer these elements to his spectacular shows.

In 1984, Mugler's brand celebrated its tenth anniversary with a large-scale show at the Zenit stadium in Paris. This event, which attracted 6,000 spectators, was one of the first to harmoniously combine a clothing show with a performance and musical accompaniment. Mel Ottenberg, renowned stylist and editor of Interview Magazine, noted that "no one in fashion came close to the level of theater he created." The show not only cemented Mugler's reputation but also became a milestone in fashion history, setting new standards for future events.

In 1988, the book "Thierry Mugler: Photographer" was published, revealing Thierry Mugler's talent as a photographer. Many of his images have become famous not only in the fashion industry but also beyond, demonstrating Mugler's unique style and artistic vision. This work became an important milestone in the history of fashion photography, emphasizing the versatility of his work.

In the early 1990s, the uncompromising women's fashion of the 1940s remained a fetish that the designer could not shake throughout his career. Even in an era when grunge, punk, and minimalism became mainstream trends, his collections stood out for their flamboyant inappropriateness. During this period, critics began to call his style "high camp," emphasizing the originality and eccentricity of his work. This dedication to a retro aesthetic made him one of the most discussed designers of his time, bringing elements to contemporary fashion that seemed dated, yet at the same time aroused admiration and interest.

Camp represents a unique aesthetic category, characterized by flamboyant theatricality, artificiality, and the grotesque. This concept combines elements of play and seriousness, often crossing the line into vulgarity. Camp manifests itself in various forms of art and culture, including fashion, film, and literature, creating an atmosphere where theatricality and exaggeration are the main accents.

Vogue Russia is one of the country's most influential fashion publications, offering its readers current trends, analytical materials, and exclusive interviews with renowned designers, models, and other representatives of the fashion industry. The magazine covers not only fashion but also beauty, lifestyle, culture, and art. Vogue Russia is an important source of inspiration for many who follow the latest trends and strive to stay up-to-date with the fashion world. Readers can find style tips, beauty recommendations, and information about upcoming events in the fashion industry. Since its founding, Vogue Russia has remained an authority on fashion and style, bringing a unique perspective to contemporary trends and traditions.

In 1992, designer Thierry Mugler presented his first haute couture collection, which caused a sensation in the fashion world. That same year, he released the iconic perfume Angel, which quickly gained popularity and remains a bestseller for many years. Angel became a symbol of Mugler's unique style, combining bold notes and an original approach to creating fragrances.

The perfume industry used a groundbreaking component: synthetic ethyl maltol. This ingredient was traditionally used to create praline and jam-like scents in confectionery. Mugler's models, modeling latex dresses and plastic corsets on the catwalk, emitted a scent reminiscent of sweet desserts.

The deal with Clarins, which provided it with a 34% stake in the Angel brand, allowed Mugler to focus on the creative aspects of his work. Now he was free to do what he truly loved, without the distraction of selling clothes. This collaboration opened new horizons for his creative ideas and allowed the Angel brand to strengthen its position in the market.

The first gourmand perfume, packaged in a twilight blue box, became a real event in the fashion industry thanks to its epic show at the Cirque d'Hiver in Paris in 1995. This show stood out from other events, as the revenue from fashion lines often does not justify the significant costs of organizing shows. The success of this perfume demonstrates how innovative approaches can change the perception of a brand and attract attention to a product, even when the financial risks are high.

In 1998, the spring/summer collection featured the model The Wet Dress, which clung to the model's body, creating the impression that she had just emerged from the water, yet remained nude. This unique concept emphasized elegance and sensuality, drawing attention to texture and form. The Wet Dress became a symbol of boldness and innovation in the fashion world, demonstrating how style and provocation can be skillfully combined.

The dress was crafted from a combination of sheer and iridescent fabrics, artfully draped and constructed to create a wet-weather effect. The illusion of wetness was enhanced by shadows, textures, and shimmering elements that effectively reflect light. This creates a unique visual effect that attracts attention and emphasizes femininity.

From Circus to Miracles

In 2002, Thierry Mugler left the fashion world, shortly after Clarins, which had bought the rights to his name in 1997, announced the closure of the unprofitable Mugler fashion brand.

Clarins retained a more profitable line of perfumes.

The future became bright thanks to successful perfumes such as Angel and Alien, which became bestsellers. After leaving the brand, the designer focused on personal transformation. He reclaimed his name—Manfred—and began practicing yoga and meditation, as well as actively exercising, which allowed him to transform his physique into an athletic figure. Following a gym accident and two car crashes, he underwent reconstructive facial surgery, in which specialized bone grafts transformed his image, transforming the "slim, charming dancer" into a "warrior."

In 2003, Manfred Mugler created unique stage costumes for the show Zumanity, which became part of Cirque du Soleil. This show, which ran in Las Vegas from 2003 to 2020, stood out for its overt eroticism, combining elements of cabaret. Zumanity offered audiences an unforgettable experience, combining acrobatics, music, and theater in one program, making it a landmark event in the world of entertainment.

In 2008, the brand began its revival under the leadership of new creative director Riccardo Tisci. He set himself the task of updating the brand's aesthetic, bringing fresh ideas and contemporary trends to its design.

Tisci's collections feature structured silhouettes with an emphasis on the shoulders and waist, a hallmark of Mugler's style. However, the designer added a contemporary twist by experimenting with asymmetry and original design solutions. These innovations give the images uniqueness and freshness, emphasizing the mastery of combining traditional forms and modern trends in fashion.

In 2010, Nicola Formichetti, previously known as Lady Gaga's stylist, was appointed creative director of the Thierry Mugler brand. During his tenure, the brand's name was shortened to Mugler, marking an important milestone in its history and development.

Formichetti significantly changed the approach to the brand, offering his own interpretation of the brand's DNA, combining futuristic elements, bold proportions, and sleek minimalism. He also brought elements of drama and spectacle to his fashion shows, including performances by Lady Gaga, who became his muse and superstar. However, despite all efforts, the brand continued to be unprofitable.

In 2013, Mugler again took up his work as a creative consultant, but this period proved short-lived. After several unsuccessful attempts to preserve the brand's unique DNA, employing various designers such as Riccardo Tisci and David Coma, the company's management decided to change strategy. As a result, they brought in a designer from the Swedish avant-garde brand Acne, whose aesthetic differs significantly from Mugler's sci-fi eroticism. This change in design emphasis underlines the company's desire for a new interpretation and renewal of its image in the fashion industry.

In 2017, American Casey Cadwallader has been appointed creative director of the Mugler brand. Manfred personally interviewed him, underscoring the importance of choosing a new leader for the company.

Cadwallader's first collections didn't make a splash, but they were warmly received by both critics and the fashion community. They were a true reinvention, not just a play on past designs. Over time, his designs gained recognition and earned a place in pop culture. Cadwallader was able to create a unique style that combines modern trends and elements of classic fashion heritage, which made his work in demand and relevant.

In 2019, L'Oreal acquired the Mugler brand, marking a major step in the company's renewal and development strategy. As part of this acquisition, L'Oreal began rethinking its brand management approaches, emphasizing its uniqueness and creativity, which will allow Mugler to strengthen its market position and attract a new audience.

At the beginning of the pandemic, a presentation film was released that reflected key elements: surrealism, futurism, and a unique play with proportions. The film included the most popular models and a trendy electronic soundtrack. In subsequent seasons, all shows were held online, and each of them became a vivid expression of Mugler's aesthetic, adapted to a new era characterized by digital technology, the pandemic, and artificial intelligence.

Manfred Thierry Mugler, an outstanding designer and innovator in the world of fashion, passed away on January 23, 2022. Just three days later, during Paris Couture Fashion Week, the first public show took place, becoming a landmark event. This event featured cutting-edge visual technology and effects, creating a unique immersion into the world of Mugler's visionary creativity. Cameras followed the models from various angles, highlighting both the fashion itself and Mugler's artistic vision. The show was a significant success in Mugler's new era, demonstrating a return to the brand's roots. It was a dramatic show, imbued with unabashed sexuality and an all-encompassing sense of tolerance. This approach highlights Mugler's uniqueness and its ability to draw attention to current fashion themes.

Transgender performer Arca dramatically presented the Spiral Curve bag, during the show she passionately snatched the accessory from the hands of another participant sitting in the front row. This bright action emphasized the uniqueness and eccentricity of both Arca itself and the new bag, drawing attention to the fashionable object. Spiral Curve becomes not only a stylish addition, but also a symbol of boldness and self-expression in the fashion world.

In 2023, a unique collaboration took place between Mugler and Swedish retailer H&M. This collaboration combined Mugler's bold and avant-garde aesthetic with H&M's accessibility and broad audience reach. This approach draws attention to innovative design, making it accessible to a wider audience, opening up new horizons for fashion and style.

The advertising campaign featured not only models, but also renowned artists from the world of electronic pop music: Shy Girl, Eartheater, and Arca, who also created the soundtrack for the video. Many pieces in the collection are unisex, reflecting not only the current trend for inclusivity but also a tribute to the brand's heritage. In an era when such ideas were not widely accepted, Mugler collaborated with people of all sizes and genders, including transgender models, drag queens, and porn stars. His work addressed important social issues, including critiques of racism, ageism, and other forms of social injustice.

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