The Queen's Unusual Dress. Excerpt from the book "Chromorama"

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Publisher Dmitry Aronov announces the release of the book "Chromorama. How Color Changed Our View of the World" by Riccardo Falcinelli, translated into Russian by Irina Zvereva. This book examines the influence of color on the perception of reality and its significance in modern society. We are pleased to present an excerpt from the chapter "The Modernity of Mallow Color," which illustrates the key ideas of the work.

Queen Victoria played a key role in the history of flowers, initiating significant changes in fashion. For her daughter's wedding, she chose an unusual dress in a vibrant purple hue known as "mallow." This color instantly gained popularity, and many began using it in clothing and interior design. However, the significance of this event lies not only in the introduction of a new shade but also in the technological breakthrough it represented. Queen Victoria's dress was dyed with mauveine, the first synthetic dye created in a laboratory without the use of natural raw materials. This innovation in chemistry led to a significant increase in trade. It's worth noting that major chemical and pharmaceutical companies such as Bayer, Ciba-Geigy, and Basf began their operations in the 19th century as manufacturers of synthetic dyes. From that moment on, the world of color changed forever, opening new horizons for fashion and design.

Mauveine was discovered by William Henry Perkin (1838–1907), a student at the Royal College of Chemistry. In March 1856, at the age of eighteen, he was searching for a way to synthesize quinine, which was used as a treatment for malaria. During his laboratory experiments, Perkin accidentally obtained a dark substance that was usually discarded as waste. However, he noticed that dissolving this substance in alcohol produced a lilac-colored liquid. This discovery inspired him to create a dye for fabrics. Perkin tested the new dye on silk and was pleasantly surprised by its resistance to sunlight, rubbing, and washing. The new dye proved ideal for wool, cotton, and other materials, producing shades ranging from lilac to deep violet depending on the soaking and mordanting time. The discovery of mauveine was a milestone in both the chemistry and textile industries, opening up new horizons for dyeing fabrics.

The discovery was the result of growing interest in the use of resinous residues left over from distillation, which arose with the advent of gas lighting. The dyeing properties of these residues had previously been known, but had attracted little attention. Perkin's talent was evident not only in the discovery but also in its application: he quickly patented the new substance and began mass production. He initially called the dye "purple aniline," but changed its name just two years later. This discovery was a major step in the development of the chemical and textile industries, facilitating the creation of new dyes and improving product quality.

Marketing experts suggested a new, more appealing and original name: mauve, which means "mallow" in French. This name helps create a psychological connection between the color and the fashion capital of the world, enhancing its appeal to consumers.

The dye was a resounding success, and Perkin quickly became famous and wealthy. The chemist turned entrepreneur, independently organizing all the processes necessary for mass production. This step was a significant innovation in the history of the chemical industry.

To appreciate the significance of this discovery, it is important to consider fabric dyeing methods in the past. A manual on fabric dyeing published in 1817 described ten steps necessary to produce red cloth. The process began with cleaning the cotton of wood impurities, then immersing the fabric in a manure solution to prepare it for further processing. The next steps were oiling and leaching, degreasing with soda, tanning with gall nuts, bleaching with aluminum alum, mordant, alum washing, and mordant fixation. The process was completed by dyeing with madder powder. For centuries, dyeing was labor-intensive, accompanied by unpleasant odors and difficulties. However, with the advent of Perkin, the process became more organized, cleaner, and virtually odorless. This was a time of rapid industrial development, when in the 19th century, textile production became defined by constant technological innovations, similar to modern advances in electronics.

Reading is an important aspect of our lives, helping us develop our thinking, improve our vocabulary, and broaden our horizons. It helps us immerse ourselves in new worlds and become acquainted with different cultures and ideas. Regularly reading books, articles, and other materials not only develops our imagination but also strengthens our memory and concentration. In today's world, where information is available in various formats, it's important to choose quality sources and devote time to reading to enrich your knowledge and skills. Read carefully, analyze what you read, and share your thoughts with others to make the reading process even more fun and useful.

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